Combat Boots

Combat boots, judged by the shaft and the sole

Combat boots are laced boots with a shaft that climbs above the ankle and a sole built for uneven ground. The range here is new production rather than surplus stock, in black leather, coyote suede and camouflage, cut for men and for women. Two things decide whether a pair works for you: how high the shaft sits on the calf, and how the closure holds the heel down. Everything else is preference. The wider family of military boots follows the same logic, so the reasoning below carries across it.

How should combat boots fit?

A boot that fits like a shoe is too small. Feet swell over a day on hard ground, and the toes need room to move forwards on a descent without meeting the front of the boot. The heel is the opposite: it should barely lift when you walk, because a heel that slides is what raises a blister. Try a pair late in the day, wearing the sock thickness you actually walk in, and lace to the top before judging anything. Sizing runs differently from trainers, so read the chart on the product page rather than assuming a number.

What shaft height do you need?

A lower shaft flexes at the ankle and suits walking on paths and everyday wear. A taller shaft restricts that flex, which is the point when the ground is loose, rutted or overgrown, and it keeps grit and water out for longer. The trade is stiffness and a longer lacing routine each morning. Desert patterns tend to run lighter and more breathable, which is why the army desert boots cut is often chosen for warm weather. Cold and wet ground asks for the opposite, and insulated designs belong with winter boots.

Which closure suits your feet?

• Dial closure: a BOA-style dial tightens a cable evenly across the instep and adjusts in seconds with gloves on.
• Side zip: laces stay tied and the boot opens and closes at the zip, useful for repeated on and off during a day.
• Speed hooks: open hooks up the shaft let the lace be pulled through fast, though they can catch on undergrowth.
• Ankle lock eyelets: a locking eyelet at the flex point lets the lower foot stay relaxed while the ankle is held firm.

How long does breaking in take?

Leather softens where it creases, so short walks on flat ground do more than a single long day. Wear the boots around the house first, then on an hour outdoors, and only then load them. The two spots that complain are the heel counter and the top edge of the shaft; a thicker sock and a second lacing pass usually settle both. Lower-cut tactical boots need less of this because the shaft has less material to yield.

How do you look after them?

Brush off dry mud rather than washing it off, since grit dragged across leather cuts it. Dry boots away from direct heat, which shrinks and cracks the upper, and pull the insoles out so the inside can breathe. Feed leather when it starts to look grey, and check the stitching where the sole meets the upper each time you clean them.