Army Jacket

Army jacket: several patterns, one shape language

Army jacket is a family name rather than a single garment. Under it sit the four-pocket field coat cut from the M65 pattern, the short nylon bomber with its ribbed hem and cuffs, the hooded parka built for standing still in the cold, and the shell cut for rain. All of the range is new production rather than issued stock, so the choice comes down to length, insulation and how the hood is built.

What is the difference between a field coat, a bomber and a parka?

Length and intent separate them. The field coat sits at the hip, has four external pockets and a collar that hides a rolled hood, and is designed to be layered rather than to be warm on its own; the field jacket shape is the one most often worn as a light outer layer in spring and autumn. A bomber stops at the waist with elastic ribbing, which traps warmth but leaves the lower back exposed when sitting. A parka runs to mid-thigh with a substantial hood and quilted or fur-trimmed insulation, and the army parka cuts in the range follow that longer line.

How much room should be left for a fleece underneath?

Sizing that fits a t-shirt in a changing room stops working in January. Measure over the mid layer that will actually be worn beneath it, usually a fleece or a jumper, and check three points: the shoulder seam should land at the edge of the shoulder rather than down the arm, the sleeve should cover the wrist bone with the arm raised, and the chest should still allow a flat hand to slide between jacket and layer. Anything tighter compresses the insulation and makes it colder, not warmer.

Which details separate one jacket from another?

• Hood construction: a wired or drawcord brim holds shape in wind; a soft hood collapses over the eyes the moment it rains sideways.
• Storm flap: a fabric placket over the main zip keeps wind and water off the teeth, and the popper spacing tells you how well it will lie flat.
• Cuff closure: hook and loop tabs adjust over a glove; ribbed cuffs seal well but cannot be opened to vent.
• Pocket placement: chest pockets stay reachable under a rucksack hip belt, lower hand pockets do not.
• Lining: quilted, fleece or unlined changes the temperature range far more than the outer fabric does.

Is a cotton army jacket any use in the rain?

Cotton and poly-cotton field patterns hold off a shower and then wet out, gaining weight and drying slowly. For sustained rain the sealed-seam shells in military waterproof jacket are the honest answer, worn over the field coat or instead of it. Where the point is appearance rather than weather, the printed patterns in camo jacket follow the same cuts in woodland and desert colourways.

How should it be washed?

Check whether the lining detaches first, since many quilted liners come out and wash separately. Cool wash, gentle spin, zips closed and hook and loop tabs fastened so they do not chew the face fabric. Air dry away from a radiator: high heat shrinks cotton twill unevenly and can distort a nylon shell around the seams.