Army Desert Boots

Army desert boots, a lighter build on a military last

Army desert boots take the shape of a service boot and strip weight out of it. The upper is usually suede or nubuck rather than thick polished leather, panels of open weave textile sit through the sides or the tongue, and the sole is cut for dust, grit and hard ground rather than for deep mud. The selection here is new production in black, tan and camouflage, and it runs from plain lace pairs to side zip versions, dial lacing systems and insulated cold weather models.

What separates a desert boot from a heavier service boot?

Air, mainly. The suede upper and the textile panels let heat out and let the boot dry after a soaking, which is exactly what the thicker leather used across the combat boots range refuses to do quickly. The trade is protection, since a lighter upper scuffs sooner against rock and thorn. The plainest version of the same silhouette is listed on its own as the desert boot. Heavier leather patterns sit in the wider military boots selection.

Which fastening should you choose?

• Full lacing: the most adjustable option, because tension can be set separately over the foot and up the ankle, though it is the slowest to put on.
• Side zip: laces are tied once and the zip does the daily work. Check that it sits behind a storm flap, since that seam is where grit gets in.
• Dial lacing: a wire tightened by a ratchet, quick to use with gloves on and even in pressure, though the dial is a moving part exposed on the outside of the boot.
• Shaft height: a taller cuff supports the ankle under a loaded pack, while a lower cut flexes more freely on made paths.

How should army desert boots fit?

Try them on with the socks that will actually be worn, late in the day when feet have swollen. There should be a thumbnail of room ahead of the longest toe so the foot does not slam forward on a descent, and the heel should lift barely at all once the laces are pulled tight over the instep. Width matters more than length in a boot this light, as there is little stiffness in the upper to hold a foot that is swimming inside it.

Do they cope with British weather?

They handle a dry cold day and a summer walk well, and they shed a shower. Sustained wet ground is a different job, and lined winter boots answer it more honestly. Suede also drinks water once the factory finish has worn away, so a spray proofer applied to clean, dry boots is the single habit that keeps a tan pair usable through autumn.

How are they broken in and looked after?

Wear them for short walks on flat ground before committing to a long day, since the ankle is where a stiff new boot rubs first. Brush dried mud off with a stiff brush rather than washing it away, because water carries dirt down into the nap and flattens it. Dry them away from radiators with the laces out and the tongue open, and pack the toe box with newspaper if they have been soaked through.