Military Jackets

Jackets grouped by the weather they answer

Military jackets here run from a lined bomber to an extreme cold weather parka, taking in the four-pocket field pattern, waterproof shells and fur-trimmed hoods along the way. All are new production in military cuts rather than old issue stock. The way to narrow a hundred and thirty options quickly is to name the weather and the layer first, then let the pattern follow.

Field jacket, parka or bomber?

The three patterns solve different problems. A field pattern is a hip-length shell with four external pockets, built to go over a jumper and to be worn open in mild weather. A parka is longer, hooded and insulated, cut to cover the seat and stay closed against wind. A bomber is short, elasticated at waist and cuff, and insulated lightly, which keeps it easy to wear over a shirt and easy to sit down in. Anyone unsure of the terminology can compare the plain army jacket shapes side by side before choosing weight.

What makes a jacket warm?

• Insulation: quilted or fur-trimmed lining traps air, and the loft of that layer, not the outer fabric, is what holds heat.
• Length: a hem that covers the seat protects the femoral arteries and cuts the draught up the back.
• Closures: a storm flap over the zip, a drawcord at the hem and adjustable cuffs stop warm air being pumped out with every stride.
• Hood: a hood that adjusts around the face keeps heat where it escapes fastest, and a detachable one lets the same jacket work in spring.

The heaviest of these, built for standing still in the cold rather than walking, sit in the army parka range.

Which jackets are waterproof?

Only those described as waterproof, and the difference is structural. A waterproof shell uses a coated or laminated fabric with taped seams, so water cannot enter through the needle holes. A water-repellent cotton jacket sheds a shower and then soaks. A quilted parka can be both warm and only shower resistant, which is why a wet British winter often calls for a shell over insulation rather than one jacket doing everything. Reproofing restores beading on a shell once rain starts to soak in rather than roll off.

How should a military jacket fit?

Loose enough for a jumper underneath, close enough that the shoulder seam sits on the shoulder rather than halfway down the arm. Sleeves should reach the wrist bone with arms raised, not just with arms hanging. A jacket sized up two steps to look relaxed usually gapes at the neck and loses more heat than the extra thickness gains. Jackets cut for a narrower shoulder and a shaped waist sit in the female army jacket range, since a men's field pattern usually runs wide at the chest. The field jacket pattern in particular is drafted with room already built in.

How is camouflage worn off duty?

On one half of the outfit only. A camo jacket over plain black or olive trousers reads as a considered choice, while pattern on both halves reads as a uniform. Woodland and multi-terrain patterns sit comfortably with denim, and a plain jacket in olive or khaki is the quieter route to the same silhouette.