Military Boots

Military boots, a family of patterns rather than a single boot

Military boots is a category that holds several distinct designs: black leather laced patterns, sand-coloured suede models, camouflage cold weather versions and side-zip designs cut for men and for women. None of it is issued surplus stock, it is new production, so the sensible way through the range is to decide what the boot has to do before deciding how it should look. Two boots that look almost identical in a photograph behave very differently once the ground turns soft.

Which pattern answers which conditions?

Heat and dust point one way, a wet British winter another. Suede and mesh uppers breathe and dry quickly, which is why army desert boots are cut light and open rather than sealed. Where the ground is broken, loaded and wet, the heavier leather uppers and deeper treads of combat boots make more sense. Once snow and salt enter the picture the deciding factor stops being the upper and becomes insulation and tread spacing, the ground covered by winter boots.

What is the upper made of, and does it matter?

Full-grain leather is the heaviest option and the slowest to soften, but it resists abrasion and can be fed and revived for years. Suede and nubuck are lighter and flexible from the first wear, though they hold dirt in the nap and need brushing rather than wiping. Nylon or mesh panels sit between leather sections on many patterns to drop weight and let heat out. A boot combining leather at the toe and heel with fabric on the sides is trying to have both, at the cost of long-term water resistance.

How is the sole attached to the boot?

Most modern patterns are cemented, meaning the sole unit is bonded to the upper. It is light and consistent, and when the bond opens it usually starts at the toe or along the outer edge rather than all at once. Stitched constructions are heavier and can be resoled, which is worth the weight only if the rest of the boot will last that long. Either way, the seam where sole meets upper is the line to inspect in close photographs.

Which details are worth checking before ordering?

• Tread spacing: widely spaced lugs shed mud, closely siped patterns grip hard flooring. Choose for the surface you stand on most.
• Tongue attachment: a gusseted tongue joined to the upper keeps grit and water out far longer than a loose one.
• Removable insole: it lets the inside dry properly and allows a replacement footbed if the standard one is thin.
• Lining: an insulated or fleeced lining changes the internal volume, so a thick sock may no longer fit the same size.

What do these boots wear with?

Cargo and field trousers are cut long so the hem can be bloused over the shaft, which is what the ankle drawcord on a pair of trousers is for. Lower, lighter patterns such as tactical boots sit better under a straight hem and read as ordinary footwear off duty. Sizing is rarely consistent between makers, so measure the foot, wear the sock thickness you actually use, and read the chart on the product page rather than repeating a number from a previous pair.