Waterproof Socks

Waterproof socks, a membrane between two knits

Waterproof socks are three layers bonded into one: a knitted outer that takes the abrasion inside a boot, a waterproof breathable membrane in the middle, and a soft inner knit against the skin. The range covers ankle and crew lengths for hiking, longer field lengths, lighter builds for summer and children's sizes. They are not a replacement for a boot, and they behave differently from the cushioned merino and synthetic pairs in the hiking socks range, which do more for comfort on a dry day.

How do they actually work?

The membrane blocks liquid water arriving from outside while letting vapour from the foot pass in the other direction. That second half is slower than the first, so after several hours of hard walking the inside can feel damp with sweat. That is the membrane doing its job at its own pace, not a failure. The outer knit soaks up water and stays wet, which is normal too: the barrier is the middle layer.

When are they worth wearing?

Wet grass at dawn, bog and rush, stream crossings in low shoes, kayaking, cycling on a wet road, dog walks in winter and any day spent in trail shoes that were never waterproof to begin with. They also rescue a pair of boots whose lining has given up, since the barrier moves onto the foot. Where the rain is coming from above rather than up from the ground, the sock is only one part of the answer and a shell such as a waterproof jacket deals with the rest.

Where does the water get in?

Over the cuff, almost every time. Nothing above the sock top is protected, so a short sock in deep wet ground fills from above and then holds the water in, which is worse than an ordinary sock that drains. Height is therefore the specification that matters most: match it to the depth of the ground being crossed, tuck the trouser leg over the cuff rather than into it, and in sustained rain let a pair of waterproof overtrousers carry the run-off past the sock top instead of into it.

Which details matter when choosing a pair?

• Height: ankle for trail shoes and cycling, crew for boots, knee length for bog, snow and long grass.
• Cuff grip: an elasticated or gripper cuff keeps the top sealed against the leg instead of slumping into the boot.
• Sizing: these are thicker than an ordinary sock, so a boot that was already snug will feel tight with them on.
• Inner knit: merino blends handle odour and temperature swings, synthetics dry faster and cost less.

How do you wash and dry them?

Turn them inside out, wash cool on a gentle cycle and keep bleach and fabric softener away, since both attack the bonding between the layers. Never put them on a radiator or in a hot dryer: heat is what delaminates a membrane and turns a waterproof sock into an ordinary one. Dry the inside first with the sock turned out, because moisture cannot escape through the barrier the way it would in a plain knit, and give it longer than seems reasonable. Keep toenails trimmed too: a nail through the membrane ends the sock in one walk.