Black Cargo Shorts

Black cargo shorts, the utility cut without the pattern

Black cargo shorts keep everything that makes a military short useful, the deep thigh pockets, the reinforced seat and the room to move, and drop the one thing that limits where it can be worn. Plain black reads as ordinary trousers cut short: it sits under a shirt in town, disappears on a campsite and never clashes with the rest of an outfit. The range covers classic six-pocket cuts, vintage and retro tactical styles, multi-pocket hiking shorts, water-resistant walking versions, below-the-knee lengths and a ladies cut with an elasticated waist.

How long should a pair of cargo shorts be?

Length changes the whole look. A hem finishing just above the knee is the safe middle ground and stays out of the way when you sit or climb. Below-the-knee cuts feel more relaxed and cover more skin on a sunny walk, but they bunch behind the leg when the knee bends fully. Shorter cuts move freely and expose more of the thigh pocket, which then sits close to the hem and swings when loaded. Measure from the crotch seam down rather than trusting the word short, since lengths run the same way across the wider army shorts range and a figure noted once transfers.

What are the thigh pockets really for?

They carry the bulk a hip pocket cannot take without digging in when you sit down: a phone, a folded map, a small torch, gloves. That only works if the pocket is anchored properly. A bellows pocket with a gusset expands without pulling the leg out of shape; a flat patch pocket holds less and lies quieter. Check how the pocket closes as well, since a press stud opens under pressure where a hook-and-loop flap or a zip does not.

Which points separate one pair from another?

• Fabric: cotton canvas feels solid and dries slowly, while a blend with synthetic fibre sheds a shower and dries far quicker on the move.
• Waist system: belt loops alone need a belt, whereas an elasticated section or side tabs absorb a size either way on their own.
• Gusset: a diamond panel at the crotch stops the seam splitting the first time you step over a stile.
• Stitching: double rows at the seat, pocket corners and hem are where a hard-worn pair either lasts or gives up.

Does black still make sense outdoors?

Black hides mud and oil better than any light colour and stays presentable after a day that ruined a pair of stone chinos. It does absorb heat in strong sun, which is the one argument for the lighter shades found across mens cargo shorts. If the point is to blend into woodland rather than into a high street, the patterned cuts in men camo shorts answer that instead.

How should they fit around the waist and thigh?

Measure the waist over the layer you will actually wear rather than reading the label, because a nominal size drifts from maker to maker. Leave room across the thigh: a short that is snug standing still becomes tight on a slope. Anyone shopping across several patterns at once will find the same cuts running through military shorts.